Bierzo, Spain
La Vizcaína (Raúl Pérez)
Raúl Pérez is the most celebrated winemaker in northwest Spain, obsessive about rescuing old vines others abandoned. This white blends three nearly forgotten grapes from ancient Bierzo vineyards — it's the kind of singular, nervy wine that makes collectors scramble to find it, usually for well under $40.
A letter about wine, once a week
Written by Chris. One bottle or one idea, no roundup.