Josko Gravner is the Slovenian-border farmer who, in the 1990s, abandoned modern winemaking to ferment his white grapes in buried clay pots for months, leaving the skins in contact with the juice the way red wine is made. The result is an orange-amber white unlike almost anything else — expect savory and oxidative, not fruity and fresh.
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A letter about wine, once a week
Written by Chris. One bottle or one idea, no roundup.